I’ve been visiting Cumberland Island for the last few years in October (1, 2, 3, 4).
However, with the government shutdown I had to delay
it.
December was definitely different from October. It was colder (and I
wasn’t quite prepared for early morning temperatures) but also much
less crowded (which I liked). The campgrounds were maybe one-third
full with fewer day trip people. Matter of fact, the ferry doesn’t
run two days a week so us campers pretty much had the island to
itself.

Perhaps
it was because there were so few people, but everyone seemed so
friendly. We exchanged stories of animal sightings and “secret”
places to visit. I learned where to find fossil shark’s teeth
though I found more fossil bones than teeth. I even borrowed
someone’s phone to text John since their AT&T had service while
my Verizon had nothing. A
couple campers told me about the
orange and grapefruit trees that had ripe fruit in one of the
campgrounds.
They
say they grew from seeds that campers spit out. Online, it seems it
might be seeds spread by birds from citrus trees grown as a cash
crop. Who knows?
As
far as animals, I saw 3 dolphins on the ferry ride.
When
you hear a noise in the trees on Cumberland Island, it can be an
armadillo, deer, raccoon, squirrel, wild pig, or a wild horse. I saw
all of these this week. (They say there are bobcats on the island but
I haven’t spoke to anyone who saw one.) I only saw a few deer. Most ran before I could get a good picture.
Armadillos
were everywhere. Technically, this is a nine-banded armadillo. See
the tail.
In
previous visits, I only saw a few wild pigs. On just one hike in the
North section of the island, I saw 13 different pigs. All stared at
me for awhile then ran away.
The
horses may be the most dangerous animals on the island. You are
supposed to stay a school bus length from them though they sometimes
walk up closer than that. They tell a story about a lady getting too
close trying to get a selfie. The horse kicked her and she had to be
life-flighted off the island. Then her insurance wouldn’t pay for
the helicopter so she had to pay the $20,000 for the helicopter
herself. Scary story, but I can’t find that it really happened by
googling it, so who knows.
I’ve
wanted to see the North section in previous visits but was either
unprepared for the hike or the area was closed due to hurricane
damage. I finally got there! There is a wonderful campground 10.5
miles north of the ferry landing. The campground is big enough and
full of trees so that I didn’t even realize there were people at
three other campsites until I wandered along the trail. At any time,
horses may wander through the campground.
The
sunsets every night was absolutely gorgeous. The pictures can’t
convey the colors.
Of
course, I had to do some general hiking. Overall, I hiked more than 40
miles over the 5 days. But much of my hiking was in the North section
where the trails aren’t very clear. There are no blazes. The poorly
marked human
trail and the easy
to see horse
paths cross so I wandered off the official path several times. On one
trail I ended up fighting my way through saw palmettos that scratched
me. Turns out that a guy I talked to on the ferry back got lost on a
trail and was scratched up by saw palmettos too.
BTW,
this picture was another trail with saw palmettos just on the side.
But
I finally got to the church that’s 15 miles from the dock. It was a
church, school, and meeting place for the black population that lived
here through the 1900’s. It was also the location of the 1996
wedding of John F. Kennedy, Jr. I finally did it!